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Vanishing crafts

VOL. X ISSUE V MAY 2003

 

Missing in Goa

by Lionel Messias 

Other articles in this issue

From then till now
Jasleen Dhamija

The cloth of life
Bharat Dogra

Trouble in Orissa
Elisa Patnaik

Is handloom doomed?
Kathyayini Chamaraj

Picking up the threads
Suverchala Kashyap

The commerce of art
Ashish Sen

The way to the artisan’s Haat
Arun A Srivastav

Tribal art and the city
Savia Viegas

Fair trade
Richard Kahle


Refractive Index

Human Index


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Old, beautiful furniture, made by Goan craftsmen under the Portuguese influence, is hard to come by and even more difficult to restore. But diehards like Daniel Ferrao are trying to breathe new life into it

Once the craftsmen crafted them expertly under Portuguese patronage. Today a new and unlikely generation restores the furniture that was made and sold for the domestic market in Goa, and remained in the homes of Goa for centuries, unnoticed and virtually discarded. It emerged once again in the last ten years as a new-found object of appreciation for some. People like Daniel Ferrao of the Attic in idylic Camarcazana, near Mapusa, are perhaps the most serious of the restorers. For the others, it is simply a product to be supplied to the well-heeled who are willing to pay big bucks for the pleasure of sitting, dining and sleeping on Goan antique furniture. The degree to which the Portuguese – the first Europeans to arrive in Asia – were involved in directing workshops to manufacture furniture is not really known. Portable fall-front cabinets were designed, for example, to hold personal effects and were a basic requirement of the European merchants and traders living and travelling in Asia.
The production of such furniture was based in western India, primarily Gujarat, a long-standing centre for luxury goods as they were strangely called in the old days. Not much is known today about the precise place of manufacture of this furniture, because there were probably several centres in western India where the Portuguese were located, where they worked in related styles and shared methods of production. Whatever their place of manufacture, it is clear that portable fall-front cabinets were made in large numbers and traded both locally and in Europe where they were highly esteemed. “Be sure that Goan artisans made some of the best and exotic furniture done in India and Goa dating back to the 16th century, which were done for export only to royalty,” says Ferrao.
Daniel Ferrao says Goan antique furniture – for sitting, dinning and sleeping – was influenced by Portuguese designs, which in turn was influenced by European designs but still remained Portuguese eventually. “They are Portuguese designs – lots of carving involved, and the locals contributed their own creativity.” Typical of the local contribution is the ‘Jacobian twist’ around the legs and tie of a table. For a lay person, a tie would be the part that connects two sides of a table on which a person can also rests one’s feet. There are also the Jacobian pillars, candlesticks and bedposts. “Other local influences are lions, birds that could have been influenced by Hindu mythology – creatures of fantasy, part bird or part animal.”
A large category of furniture made in India under Portuguese patronage was called the ‘cabinet on stand.’ Although pieces of this type were produced in quantity, there is little again that can be firmly established about the workshops that made them. A historian wrote that Indo-Portuguese cabinets of this size were also characterised by wholly distinctive elements like an abstracted animal, and geometric designs that have no precedent in any one European or Indian tradition. In a book titled Luxury Goods from India, the author Amin Jaffer said that the scrolling legs, for instance, derive from 17th Iberian furniture, but are inlaid with bird forms that scholars have associated with ‘Jatayu,’ king of vultures, and a central character in the Ramayana.
The materials, inlay and intricately pierced mounts on cabinets of this type are similar to the fitted chests of drawers and cabinets in the sacristy of the Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa. The existence of purpose built church furniture in a closely related style and identical materials suggests that cabinets of this type were made in or around Goa. The Victoria and Albert Museum today hold the most comprehensive and sizeable collection of furniture and woodwork made in the Indian subcontinent. A pair of armchairs, when acquired by the museum in 1879, were identified as mahogany and thought to be of mid-eighteenth century English manufacture. By the 1980s, it was felt that the chairs were made in China for western markets because of their ruyi-head on the splats. Only recently, it was finally discovered that the chairs were made in Goa! The inverted cloud motif on the splats or main back rest derives from the head of a ruyi (literally meaning ‘what one wants’), a wand associated with good fortune.
An electronics engineer, third generation antique furniture restorer, Ferrao says the early Indo-Portuguese furniture comprising of exotic woods like rosewood, ebony or furniture inlaid with ivory was mostly of the made-to-order variety. “It’s highly probable that much of it was made in Gujarat and the fittings were done in Goa i.e. the decorative mounds in silver and brass or, the locking, handles. In fact, Goa may have been a fitting area only for the exotic export market, simply because tiny Goa could not cope with the numbers. And probably because Goan artisans were better at the intricate aspects of the furniture.” Goan antique furniture, like its craftsmen, may not become extinct simply because the existing items of furniture will always be available for restoration; at least that is what Ferrao thinks. Goa’s famed craftsmen in the village of Benaulim in south Goa are an extinct species because there’s hardly any rosewood available. “There are no quality craftsmen available. In fact, it could take a year to get your furniture delivered, if one them does agree to take up your job.”

Ferrao, who “wisely” got himself an electronics and communications degree before “I returned to my roots,” says there is just no respect any longer for furniture craftsmen or, for that matter, any artisan. “Everyone wants to be a professional or wants a white collar job.” The beauty and the richness of the broken-down furniture too, waiting to be restored in the huge colonial-house-turned-workshop in Camarcazana, has not been able to convince anyone to switch streams. You would have to be an idiot to give up the chance of making money at the stock market or developing software, notwithstanding the vagaries of the two, is the strict belief here.  “Awareness in people is also a necessary part of the whole thing. We could make a beginning here in Goa by banning the demolition of old colonial buildings and houses,” says Ferrao. A beginning could also be made with a graduate course on wood craft, says Ferrao, involving identification of period furniture and techniques in fittings ie what was used in earlier periods. “All this could be merged with modern machinery, which, ironically, would make things so easy for the modern craftsmen; though the hand will never ever be replaced in the chiselling aspects of making antique furniture.”
What happened to the old genuine craftsmen? They simply ran out of steam, literally and figuratively. “I cannot put a finger on the number, maybe 10, but this figure would also depend on their calibre. One thing is for sure; there are no second or third generation craftsmen around any longer. The worst part is that they take upto two years to deliver, because they simply juggle around with other work orders.”

Lionel Messias is a Hyderabad-based journalist and can be contacted at leo@gecsl.com

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Exotic furniture by Goan artisans dates back to the 16th century

Ferrao, who “wisely” got himself an electronics and communications degree before “I returned to my roots,” says there is just no respect any longer for furniture craftsmen or, for that matter, any artisan. “Everyone wants to be a professional or wants a white collar job.” The beauty and the richness of the broken-down furniture too, waiting to be restored in the huge colonial-house-turned-workshop in Camarcazana, has not been able to convince anyone to switch streams.

The Victoria and Albert Museum today hold the most comprehensive and sizeable collection of furniture and woodwork made in the Indian subcontinent. A pair of armchairs, when acquired by the museum in 1879, were identified as mahogany and thought to be of mid-eighteenth century English manufacture. By the 1980s, it was felt that the chairs were made in China for western markets because of their ruyi-head on the splats. Only recently, it was finally discovered that the chairs were made in Goa!