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In the bylanes of this town, wedlock is a weekend exercise
by Preetu Nair

This article first appeared in
Gomantak Times, Feb 6 2005

Love and Marriage, Love and Marriage,
Goes together like a horse and carriage
Let me tell you, brother –
You can't have one without the other! - Frank Sinatra

Frank Sinatra had never heard of Sawantwadi, a historical town in Western state of Maharashtra in India, 70 kilometers from Panaji, capital of Goa. Perhaps not many in Sawantwadi would have heard or heard of Frank Sinatra. But if Sinatra and Sawantwadi had ever met, the singer would have been appointed patron saint of Sawantwadi.
In the bylanes of this town, wedlock is a weekend exercise. Like a walk in the park, a trip to the store. A peck on the cheek, presumably love too. But only till the marriage lasts.

But this town, once the seat of the Bhonsle kings, could be an ideal location for a movie called 'Marriage Actually", a sequel to "Love Actually". This is where hundreds of Goan couples come for a quickie marriage to "legalise" and sanctify their love relationships. This shaddi in a jiffy, in a mangal karyalay costs just 4000 bucks. The package could go up if documents need to be managed. And in a matter of an hour, a couple can be man and wife.

Sawantwadi therefore is an ideal destination to say "I do", when parents and family members tell you "you don't". But the ease of these marriages has other side effects. When the 'husband' wants to move on and see other women, the wife has little recourse because these marriages stop short of being fully legal. And then the women have no way of proving that they were actually married. There are numerous such cases.

Picture this

• *Reena was 20 when she fell in love with a boy from her office and married him in 1998 at Sawantwadi. However, not even a year had passed and her husband got involved with another woman. Now she is having a hard time trying to prove that she was "married".
• *Anamika got married on December 3, 1996 at Sawantwadi to her childhood sweetheart Amit* in the presence of a few relatives, as Amit's mother was against the marriage. They have two kids. But in 2000 she filed a case at Goa State Commission for Women (GSCW) alleging that Amit was threatening to kill her as he had an affair with another woman. Amit married the "other" woman at a temple and they stay together. At first Anamika tried to fight for her rights, but then she faced several hurdles and left the case mid-way and compromised with her situation.

Sawantwadi in Maharashtra is paradise for many who want to avoid going to the office of Civil Registration in Goa and declare their desire to get married before the officer of the Taluka, along with a certificate of domicile of at least one party and certificate of birth of both boy and girl. "According to the Civil Code, before the date of registration of marriage, the Civil Registrar shall affix a Public notice, inviting any objections, if any, within 10 days. And the youngsters fear that parents may come to know about the marriage and object," said Panaji based lawyer Sudha Lad.

In Goa, the Codigo Civil Portugues or the Portuguese Civil Code (PCC), operational from 1870 with subsequent modifications, is based on Napoleon's French Civil Code. Even after liberation, the laws prevailing earlier remained in Goa, now part of Indian democracy, owing to an assurance by the Jawaharlal Nehru government. An integral part of the PCC is the code of civil registration which makes the registration of birth, death and marriage compulsory. However, the procedure of registration of marriages is not entirely uniform. Catholics have an option of solemnizing their marriages in Church after obtaining a No Objection Certificate (NOC) from the Civil Registrar. While for Hindus there is no connection between the civil marriage and religious marriage, whereas in the case of Muslims the Maulavi may ask to see the certificate of civil registration before performing the nikah. Muslim men whose marriages are registered in Goa cannot divorce by pronouncing talaq thrice, nor can they have more than one wife. In Sawantwadi city, there are 10 mangal karyalays and out of these three are really popular with the Goans: Ashirwad Mangal Karyalay, Shree Mangal Karyalay and Mahalaxmi Mangal Karyalay.

The owner of Shree Mangal Karyalay, Prakash Shankar Thakur Ghodoskar, said that one just needs to inform them four days in advance to make arrangements for the marriage. The marriage would cost only Rs 4,000. And if one is non-Hindu then an affidavit saying that they have accepted Hinduism would be prepared for Rs 1000 extra. The couple also needs to bring their birth and domicile certificate. And it doesn't matter if both of them are not from Sindhudurg area? "Domicile and witnesses are not a problem. We will take care of it. Just bring along the certificates and also three witnesses, from anywhere," said Ghodoskar.

In a priestly manner he assured, "Don't worry no one can stop the marriage. Soon after the marriage we will give you a receipt and even if anyone registers a complaint with the police, they can't trouble the couple. Moreover, the marriage certificate will be given within a week or at the most within a fortnight."

Further, as a passing remark he added, "Many young Goans come here to get married according to the Hindu rites - Saptapadi. And according to Hindu Marriage Act 1955 and Special Marriage Act 1954 this marriage is valid".

But is this marriage legal and accepted in Goa? The priest says "yes" but the lawyers seem to differ. According to them, the marriage rules laid down by the Maharashtra government are quite strict and the couple must hail from Sindhudurg and show proof of residence (either ration card or election card or any other certificate to show that they are from the place). And they should get marriage certificate from the Marriage Registration Office appointed by the government of Maharashtra.

"As the office of the Marriage Registration Office doesn't entertain the young couples from Goa, they go to the mangal karyalays. The marriage takes place at Sawantwadi city and is registered in the gram panchayats nearby. According to the Hindu Marriage Registration Act, a marriage that is held in a city should compulsorily be registered in the same," said advocate Bapu Gaonkar, Sawantwadi. However, these marriages are registered with the signature of the couple, priest and witnesses in the Gram Panchayat office of one of these villages –
Malgaon, Majgaon, Charathe, Otwane or Akeri, which are at least 4 km from Sawantwadi city.

According to Gaonkar, though this marriage performed under Hindu rites is valid before law under Hindu Marriage Act 1955, it is really difficult to prove it as the witnesses of the marriage wouldn't like to accept that they were a party to any wrongdoing.

"The problem in India is that for most of us 'love means marriage and lover has to be a husband'. And we believe that until we don't take the seven steps (Saptapadi) there is no sanctity to the relation. And for us the rituals are more important than the legal formalities involved with marriage," said Madhuri Rao, counselor at Family
Counseling Centre, Panaji. But is this marriage accepted in Goa? In the Civil Code there is a clause, which says that if a Goan gets married outside the state then it is advisable that the marriage is formally registered by producing the marriage certificate from the place they got married. "There is a conflict of laws here. The application of Goan law operates on the basis of nationality and domicile in the territory of Goa, whereas the law in the rest of the country operates on the basis of religion to which you belong or on the option for the secular laws. Hence there are two different basis in the law and there is a conflict when considering whether the marriage performed outside the state of Goa is to be considered valid or not," said lawyer Albertina Almeida.

But one thing is constant. Sawantwadi gets you 'married' when the folks are in opposition and it allows you to get away when the heat of the in laws gets to you. In an effort to make some quick bucks out of marriage, the system of marriage ties you up in knots

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